I live in Rome with my Filipino wife, but I was born in Southern Italy, in a place situated at the edge of the famous tourist spot known as the Amalfi Coast.
My birthplace is the village of Termini, in the municipality of Massalubrense, and Termini is the very last village of the peninsula, the one situated at the very edge of it, only 3 km away from Punta Campanella, the tip of the peninsula that separates the Bay of Naples (or the Sorrento Coast) from the Bay of Salerno (the Amalfi Coast) and faces the world famous Capri Island.
Why should you visit this area?
Because it’s the only sort of off-the-beaten-track spot in the entire region.
Beautiful though it may be, the area gets extremely crowded in summer, while the very tip of the peninsula is (relatively) still kind of unspoiled and, on top of that it’s a nature reserve.
TOP PLACES IN MASSALUBRENSE
Monte di San Costanzo
There are two ways to get to Punta Campanella: one is by walking down via Campanella from Termini, while a much more scenic one is hiking on a trail from Monte di San Costanzo
Baia di Ieranto
Baia di Ieranto is the core of the natural reserve of Punta Campanella and both fishing and motor boats are strictly forbidden.
You can get to the Baia di Ieranto from Termini itself, by way of a trail that leads to the village of Nerano first and then leads to the bay, or you can take a bus to Nerano and take the trail directly from there (easier option).
Cala di Mitigliano
And, last but not least, another nice place to visit is the Cala di Mitigliano.
(I stumbled upon this old post that I had not categorized when I created it so I am reposting it)
The Philippines has so many remote islands, jungles, rough roads and so on that the opportunities to experience adventure at its peak are endless.
I’ve had the chance to visit remote parts of the Sierra Madre Mountains where there is not even a trail and where the NPA hide.
Yet, scuba diving, bungee jumping, driving a jeep on a rough road leading to some remote waterfall, hiking in a jungle etc are certainly not the only ways to experience adventure in the Philippines.
You don’t by any means need to go to some remote area to experience adventure: just try driving in Manila during rush hour (that in Manila practically means almost any hour) where cutting in lanes and tailgating is routine or even in the province where buses overtake cars or buses in a curve and you have to resort to your best driving skills to avoid a crash, or try walking alone in some slum area like Tondo or Quiapo (I’ve experienced Quiapo by night) and you will experience “adventure” in the real sense of the word.
But even more adventurous is being married to a Filipina as the various aspects of culture shock that I’ve abundantly touched on in this blog can turn your relationship into a real “adventure” that can cause other kinds of adventures like swimming among the sharks or hiking in a trail infested with cobras or pythons to pale in comparison.
You will find yourself dealing with mainit ang ulo, hinanakit and other highly emotional traits of Filipinos or moving on the razor’s edge of trying to budget your money while sending substantial amounts to relatives in the Philippines (not my situation but it can happen to some) who expect help and those things definitely qualify as “adventure”.
But if you are willing to view the bumps on the road, the challenges and the obstacles as an opportunity to step up emotionally your relationship with a Filipina will definitely offer you an opportunity for an exciting adventure, a ride second to none.
So here is my top five list of adventures one can experience in the Philippines:
Tondo by night
Quiapo by night
E.D.S.A. Avenue at rush hour
Your Filipina’s relatives who ask for money
Your Filipina’s mood when she is having buwanang dalaw (menstruation)
In the past few months I’ve tapped into my picture file to gather some pictures that I often look at, pictures that contain details that say everything about the Filipino mentality and what being married to a Filipina may entail.
One of the photo albums that I often look at is the one that contains the pictures of my trip to Baguio City.
Baguio is a medium-sized city situated in the northern part of the island of Luzon, the northernmost island of the archipelago, in the province of Benguet.
There are several things that make Baguio a unique place:
BAGUIO’S UNIQUE CLIMATE
The city was developed as the American colonial summer capital, according to a plan composed in 1905 by the American architect-planner, Daniel Burnham.
The reason why the area where Baguio is situated was chosen to build the “summer capital” is because of its cool climate, as the city is situated about 1,470 meters above sea level and, because it has a particular microclimate that makes it conducive for the growth of its signature symbol: the pine tree (or what I call the Filipine tree…) which is a rather unique thing for a tropical country.
THE “GARDEN-CITY” OF THE PHILIPPINES
The area surrounding Burnham Park, a vast green area situated in the very middle of the city, really resembles a garden-city.
Burnham Park is not the only park in downtown Baguio: there is also Wright Park and quite a few others that really give the central area of the city a garden-city vibe.
A FITTING METAPHOR OF THE PINOY MENTALITY
Yes, Baguio is way different from the rest of the country, because it is much greener and because it offers the opportunity to find some concealment from the unbeareably hot tropical climate of the coast and, unlike most cities and towns in the Philippines, Baguio has a measure of urban planning because it was intentionally designed to become what it partly still is, namely some sort of garden-city.
Unfortunately, at least from my standpoint as a Western tourist, Baguio looks like a city that, because of the “Pinoy mentality” has largely missed the opportunity to become the garden-city that was supposed to have become, and, most of it, looks pretty much similar to the rest of the Philippines.
Here are few examples:
If you look at the pictures above, you can’t help but notice the sharp contrast between the orderliness of Wright Park (and several other green areas in town) and the Quiapo-like environment of many back streets (the one in the picture is only a couple of blocks away from Burnham Park, another neat green area of Baguio situated in the downtown area).
The people of Baguio were offered the possibility to live in an orderly city but the Filipino mentality turned order into chaos and much of the city, outside the beaten tourist track, is quite messy.
My trip to Baguio (that I made after having already experienced a few years of being in a relationship with a Filipina) strengthened my mental picture of Filipinos as people who complicate their lives unnecessarily even when they are offered the possibility to live a more straightforward and easy life on a golden plate.
Some Filipinos here in my country have employers who esteem them and pay them well and yet, as I said many times, too many Pinoy here end up broke and the possibilities they are offered to live a more “orderly” life with savings to tap into when life gets tough go down the drain and they find themselves living messy lives.
Obviously generalizations are never in order and I know a few Filipinos who bought a house here and do have savings but most don’t and I am talking about people who have been working here for 20-30 years and who came here when the economy was still thriving.
In much the same way as the inhabitants of Baguio City mismanaged their city, and instead of improving on the foundation that had been laid by the Americans who designed the city, turned many parts of it into something that is very far from being a garden-city, many (not all of course) expatriate Filipinos who have had all the possibilities in the world to improve their socio-economic condition have made no progress whatsoever.
Filipinos are, by and large, not masters at creating added value, at least socio-economically.
If you marry a Filipina there is a chance that your financial house will end up like Baguio City.
On the flip side other qualities of your Filipino spouse can make you a better man: their way of taking care of their families, their gregarious way of life, their hospitality and their sense of laughing away at tragedies could create added value in your level of humanity.
It is a matter of deciding what matters the most in your life.
Recently I spent a long weekend in my parents’ village in Southern Italy.
The name of the village is Termini di Massalubrense, situated between Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast.
The village is situated on the top of a hill and there are several bays there that can only be reached on foot.
One of those is called Baia di Ieranto and it takes about 1,5 hours to get there on foot.
As I got close to the beach, I spotted a lot of people standing on an old pier, and there was no one in the water. How come?
I kept walking and, when I got to the pier, I jumped into the water without any hesitancy and…..guess what? Jellyfish! The water was infested with jellyfish. That’s how come….
It felt like being shot with a machine gun!
I had no choice but to hike back under the scorching sun.
That is why my recent swims have only taken place in the various lakes we have around Rome.
And the reason is because the lake is safer than the sea, right? There are no sharks, no barracudas and no jellyfish in the lake, so the lake is safer, right?
Few days ago, while I was basking in the waters of Lake Bracciano, about 10 km away from the outskirts of Rome, not far from where I work, something bit me.
Yes I got bitten in the lake!
What was it?
Because the place where the incident took place is called Anguillara Sabazia, and, because the town is named after the Anguilla, the Italian term for freshwater eels, I assume that the thing that bit me was a freshwater eel.
I guess that the only safe place is a swimming pool….or better yet my wife’s loving arms….
Ang Bayan ng Roma ay kilalang-kilala bilang ang kabisera ng Baroque style.
Sa sentro ng Roma may maraming simbahan at gusali na “Baroque” ang istylo at, ayon sa ilan mga iskolar, ang kahulugan, o isa sa mga kahulugan, ng terminong ito ay may kinalaman sa di-regular na hugis ng mga perlas na medyo magaspang at hindi perpekto. Maraming mga gusali dito sa Roma ay may di-regular na hugis.
Ang isang halimbawa ay ang simbahan ng Sant’Agnese sa Piazza Navona kung saan ay may halo-halo ng malukong at matambok na hugis ang harap ng simbahan.
Noong bagong kasal ako madalas na narinig ko ang mga Pilipino na gumagamit ng salitang baroque at nagtaka ako dahil alam ko mabuti na hindi ganitong ka-interesado ang mga Pinoy sa arts at, dito sa Roma, bagaman may maraming historic na mga gusali, mas gusto ng mga Pilipino pumunta sa mga shopping mall, sa KFC, Mc Donalds o Burger King at medyo binabale-wala nila ang mga monumento na milyun-milyong mga turista na galing sa buong mundo ay sabik na sabik na makita.
Sa bagay, noong nasa Pilipinas ako, gusto ko sana makita ang historic na bahagi ng Maynila, na tinatawag na Intramuros, pero puro shopping malls ang pinuntahan namin.
Sa Baliuag, Bulacan mayroon ang isang Colonial Style na simbahan na dinaanan namin maraming beses, at na gusto ko sana makita, pero ayaw huminto ng dryber.
Sa kalaunan natuklasan ko na ang salitang baroque na ginagamit ng mga Pinoy ay walang kinalaman sa “sining” kundi sa “broken at non-standard” na pagsasalita ng ibang wika.
At, syempre, dito talagang nahihirapan ang mga Pinoy sa pagsasalita ng Italyano at sobrang barok ang kanilang pagsasalita.
Halimbawa, madalas ginagamit ng mga Pilipino ang inverter ay, na karaniwan sa Tagalog, kapag nagsasalita sila sa Italyano. Bukod dito ang f ay nagiging p at ang v ay nagiging b.
Ang nagiging resulta ay na ang isang pananalita katulad halimbawa “io devo fare…,” (“dapat akong gumawa ng……”) ay nagiging “io ay debo pare”.
Madalas na ginagamit ng mga Pilipino ang mag-, na karaniwang ginagamit sa Tagalog para bumuo ng mga pandiwa, at hinahalo nila ito sa mga pandiwa sa Italyano. Halimbawa ang Italyanong pandiwang “partire” (magbyahe) ay nagiging: “magpartire”.
Kaya, bagaman ang mga Pinoy dito ay wala kahit anong interes sa Baroque Architecture naging sila dalubhasa sa pagsasalita ng Barok Italian at talagang barok na barok ang pagsasalita nila.
Naintindihan ko na bising-bisi ang mga Pinoy dito, pero natuklasan ko na hindi kailangan ang malaking pagsisikap para pasulungin ang pagsasalita ng isang banyagang wika, sapat ang ilang minuto araw-araw. Tutal, bagaman sobrang abala ako sa dami ng ginagawa ko, kahit papaano natuto ako magsalita ng Tagalog……..kahit baka kung minsan medyo barok din ang Tagalog ko……..
Minsan dumaan ako sa harap ng isang “money transfer” na agency dito sa Roma, Italy, at napansin ko ang sinasabi sa isang patalastas na nasa pasukan: “magpadala ng pera sa Pilipinas: mabilis at ligtas“.
Binubulay-bulay ko kung gaano katotoo iyon: kung ang isang OFW ay nagpapadala ng pera sa Pilipinas mabilis mauubos iyon ng mga kamag-anak at mabilis na i-rerequest nila ang karagdagang pera.
Ligtas din sila kapag may kamag-anak na trabaho nang trabaho sa abroad at padala nang padala: malaya sila na kumain at uminom.
Mayroon ba isang taong mas ligtas kaysa sa taong hindi nagtratrabaho at naghihintay lang ng pera mula sa iba?
Talagang ligtas sila: kahit bumabagsak ang mundo nananatili sila nakatayo!
As I have said before, although my blog is about my experience as an Italian husband of a Filipina, sometimes I like to deflect and talk about interesting places to visit and things to do, not only in the Philippines but even here in my country.
Italy is an amazing country but tourist spots can get rather crowded and, quite honestly, pretty expensive.
There are alternative ways to visit this country that are no less interesting than going where everyone else is going.
And, sure enough, there are alternative ways to taste real Italian food.
A rule of thumb to follow if you want to eat well and on a budget around Rome is the following: you rent a car, or take a bus or a train, and head inland (a great area to experience Italy veryoff-the-beaten-track is the region surrounding the town of Rieti).
Once you get to the first village that looks like a God-forgotten place, or, in other words, a village situated in the middle of nowhere, nowhen and nohow (and there are many in that region), you ask the first local you encounter the following question: “dove posso trovare un ristorantino moltoignorante?”, literally meaning “where can I find a very informal place to eat? (Romans sometimes use the word “ignorante” or “ignorant” not to mean “illiterate” but, rather, to mean something or someone very informal.
Chances are that you will find one of those typical super-rustic Italian trattoria where old and fat waitresses wearing an apron almost throw huge amounts of food at you, where belching in front of everyone is socially-acceptable and wine showers from the sky in very large amounts.
Yesterday we were at Lago del Turano, near Rieti. To say that that place is off-the-beaten-track is an understatement.
I actually decided to go there after reading a blog post by a British blogger based in Ireland who is married to an Italian.
She seems to know a lot of off-the-beaten-track spots in the Rome region and she has a post about this lake that I barely knew that it even existed. I had been there maybe 30 years ago or something but had forgotten all about it.
Anyway, we visited the lake, actually a dam, and the place is quite interesting because it is surrounded by mountains and there are a few villages perched on the surrounding hills that look over the dam.
Once there I started to vividly remember visiting this lake some 30 years ago and, after that, stumbling upon a fanta-super-mega-ignorant (in the Roman sense of the word) restaurant where, for something like 25 euros per person, they fed us the whole world.
I went back to that restaurant last year without first visiting the lake: we headed straight to the restaurant from Rome.
They started out with “some” (just “some”) antipasti or starters
Then came the first dishes: the waitress asked whether we wanted one type of pasta or five assaggini (meaning little “samples” of different kinds of pasta).
We went for the assaggini and it turned out to be five dishes like this per person (just to “sample” different types of food):
After that we tried to ask for the bill, but the waitress said: “we haven’t finished yet”, at which I got knocked down on my knees and begged her to stop bringing more food…but to no avail.
She kept bringing more and more assaggini of various second, third, fourth, fifth…100th dishes and then tiramisù, ice cream, grappa, limoncello…you name it, until we got to the point that we needed some drain cleaner, some sodium hydroxide, like the one plumbers use to free the drains from stuff that clogs them, to digest….
Yes, if you want to experience eating around Rome on a budget, rent a car and go get lost in some God-forgotten village in the inland areas of the Rome region.
You will eat with satisfaction and belch in dolby-surround stereo and the echo of your belch will fill the air in an area of 100 square miles…I promise you